Breakfast is a good meal to eat in Kenilworth. There can’t be many small British towns which offer good cooked breakfasts in so many places. I’ve not been in the town long but I think there are at least six places you can get Eggs Benedict – a clumsy indicator I know but nonetheless it makes the point.
Pomeroys is a bistro on Station Road in Kenilworth. It has the look of a railway building from the outside which somehow doesn’t carry through into the interior. The dining space is a large cool high-ceilinged room with banquettes and chunky tables. The atmosphere is casual as any bistro ought to be.
The menu is just the right size – a decent selection of hot breakfasts without the nonsense of ten different versions of the Full English. Just while I have your attention – in my opinion no Full English should contain beans, hash browns or fried bread. It should contain tomato but 90% of the attempts I have seen and eaten detract from the dish. None of this has anything to do with the traditional roots of the dish but more with my personal preferences. Having said that the Full English at Pomeroys does look appealing if rather large.
On previous occasions I’ve had the Black Pudding and potato cake and had a close up view of the Eggs Benedict. Today I went for the Lumberjack Pancake which is a pancake filled with mushroom, and bacon, topped with cheese and a tomato and onion salsa. I like the interesting dishes on the menu which offer alternatives while maintaining something that is clearly breakasty.
The pancake was nicely cooked and the mushroom and cheese worked well. The presentation didn’t do the food justice; as you can see from the photo the whole thing looked a little washed out on white tableware. I think that the cheese could have been browned a little or there could have been more salsa to add some colour. Although overall the ingredients were good and very tasty I did have a problem with the bacon. It’s clearly good quality meaty rashers but for me (but not for my daughter) there was a petrol taste – almost as if the bacon was cooked and then put on some kind of burner – I remember the same thing from my last visit as soon as I tasted it. It could be the curing but it was definitely off-putting for my palate. The salsa by contrast was a delicious zingy addition which made the whole thing work. The mushroom was plentiful and well cooked.
I like the feel of the place and I would like to try a music night (they have live local music on Friday’s) and the cocktails (another offering which has a few options in the town). The price was the upper end of the range for a breakfast dish at £7.95 for the Lumberjack pancake. Coffee was good and service was efficient and friendly.
There are better places to eat breakfast regularly in Kenilworth in my opinion but this is a good ‘staple’ to try with friends most hours of the day. It looks to come into its own as a stylish, exciting place in the evenings.
Footnote – for another place to try, read my review of Alexa Lauren’s rather good Patisserie